Choosing the right fabric: Jasmine


The Jasmine blouse is cut on the bias, which makes it stretch to fit your body. We specially designed this top so that you wouldn’t have to fiddle with any closures. There are so many different color combinations you could use for this top! To get you on the right path, let’s talk about some fabrics that would work well.

Fabric drape

The best choice of fabric for the Jasmine blouse is a lightweight fabric. Look for fabrics with a soft drape. When you hold the fabric, notice how it falls away from your hand. If it hangs straight down and pulls in a little bit, like it wants to hide, it has a soft drape. If it hangs away from your hand, it has a stiff drape. A lightweight fabric works well because there are several overlapping seams at the neckline, which can be bulky in a heavier fabric. It’s also great because it will move with your body better than a heavy fabric.

Types of fabric

For our photo shoot, we used a silk crepe de chine and a silk/cotton blend. Both are lightweight fabrics. They definitely feel different but have a soft drape. If you’re looking for something a bit more casual, consider rayon. Rayon is a breathable fabric that comes in many colors and prints. It tends to have a soft drape and feels really nice. If cotton is your go-to fabric, try to find something lighter than quilting cotton. I suggest this because quilting cotton is more of a medium weight fabric, and will hang away from your body. Look in the apparel section of your fabric store for cotton fabric.


Some fun ideas for the Jasmine:

  • swiss dot fabric with a coordinating collar in a solid color
  • a solid color shirt, but use a sheer fabric in the same color for the collar
  • a fun floral fabric for the shirt and a solid fabric for the collar
  • striped fabric for a nautical look (this will be a bit difficult to match up stripes, so take your time!)

If you’re planning on making this blouse, what fabrics will you choose? Any other ideas?

Some related posts you may be interested in:

Caitlin Clark   —  

Caitlin is the Colette Patterns design assistant. You can follow Caitlin at her blog, the story girl.

Comments 15

Tabatha Tweedie

Thanks for this! I had some Amy Butler quilting cotton set aside for this but I will definitely use something else instead now. I was a little dubious anyway so your advice has confirmed the need to use a lighter weight fabric.


I’m going to make up my muslin in a silkier medium-weight cotton, just to see how it acts- preparing myself for a less than perfect result, and then invest in voile. I have a rayon in my stash that would be adorable, but it’s not in my Fall Palette…


I am using a striped fine silk which I think has a bit of cotton in it – very lightweight but not too slippery to handles. The stripes are fine too so it won’t be too much of a problem – and the colours are light (pink and green) so matching won’t matter too much. Next up probably in a very pretty Kaufman voile or maybe some of my liberty lawn stash.


I see this in a buttery voile or handkerchief linen or maybe a light Seersucker. But drat, those are all spring fabrics. For fall, I think I may just copy yours and do an ivory silk. I haven’t sewn with silk before, so it would be nice to have an easy pattern to try with. What about georgette or crepe?

Carlotta Stermaria

I have a question about Jasmine : I think it’s lovely and I love the idea of a bias cut top, but I’m only so-so about having a seam on the center of my blouse. Do you think it would be possible to copy the pattern, tape together the two halves and then to cut them on the bias, or is there somethin I didn’t think of that would prevent that, in your opinion?

On another subject, I wanted to wait until you shared the different project on the book to order it, but I couldn’t wait and preordered it yesterday!


CArlotta – I think Sarai will probably tell you that you’re going to lose some shape, as the front and back seams are not straight but shaped – this is how the top has its lovely shape, besides the fact that it’s cut on the bias :)… I just cut out the pattern and it’s so clever.

What would bug me about having a seam in the centre front would be the possibility of the finishing showing through with fine fabrics – but I have two ways of dealing with that. I don’t zig zag (no serger, and I wouldn’t anyway) – I either pink, or if the seam edge is cut on the bias, I don’t finish it at all. It’s not laziness, bias seams don’t need finishing – like bias binding, they don’t fray. Side seams of skirts that are cut on a slant don’t usually need finishing…

But hey – what is this about sharing the different project on the book – what have I missed?????

Carlotta Stermaria

Thank you Francesca, I hadn’t though of a shaped seam!
I think I remembered Sarai mentioning some sneak peeks of the book, and I hoped to have a peek of the different projects before ordering it. But errr… I’m too impatient.


You’re welcome, Carlotta :). I pre-ordered the book unseen:). But if you go to Amazon there’s the look inside thingy up, so you can get a look at a couple. And, in the envelope with my patterns, there was a flyer with pictures of the most darling designs – whoohoo – a skirt with a scalloped edge, a cute short sleeved blouse, and two other dresses besides the cover one – one with a drape down the front of the skirt – all gorgeous.


How about French seams?…


I love French seams. I’ve never used them on something cut on the slant though. I made Sorbetto in some ancient very fine lawn which was really transparent and used them there – except for the armholes. But again, I never bother with finishing when a seam is on or almost on the bias. It’s something I picked up from my aunty Bi… she taught me lots of stuff – I have no idea where she learnt, because she wasn’t a pro, just a stay at home lady who loved to sew – grew up during the second world war so maybe she picked up stuff then. Anyway, she never finished seams when they were as above, or enclosed – like facings seams – and she never ever sewed a a zip or hem by machine… she cut huge seam allowances and fitted things on you – very couture style…
She hated being watched, so it’s a wonder I learnt anything!


I’m so excited about this pattern!


I want to make the peone dress, but will you post guidelines for choosing the right fabric and perhaps do a sew-along too? I’m an advanced seemstress, but new ideas are always welcome:)
PS. Love your site!!


I also love the general look of the pattern, but and really put off by the front centre seam. Even in the beautiful examples shown I find it really detracts from the overall look. If anyone has altered the pattern to make it without the centre seam I’d really appreciate seeing how it turned out.


I’ve not sewn anything cut on the bias before. Is there anything special I should know?
I’m hoping to do the blouse in white linen or a poly cotton with navy blue collar.
I’m gonna use it for dancing in so it needs to be light with room for movement.


I loved making Jasmine. i used a silky polyester, can’t wait to wear it this fall.

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