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The search for novelty
[image: illustrations by lady of crow]
I once read that the biggest difference between men’s fashion and women’s fashion is this: men’s clothing is fairly stable in its forms and traditions, whereas women are constantly seeking novelty.
It seems to be true. Men certainly dress more casually than they used to, but many of the standard pieces of menswear would be recognizable to someone 100 years ago. I imaging if some guy emerged from a Victorian time machine at, say, the latest Burberry Prorsum Homme show, he wouldn’t be all that shocked.
That’s part of what I love about menswear. Each detail has so much history. It’s like a very limited but very evocative language.
Women’s fashion is something else entirely. We are constantly being seduced by the new, the exciting. New colors, new styles, new trends.
I think that for many of us, fashion is a way to reinvent ourselves. We can use it to express some nuance of our personality that we weren’t expressing before. It can be a sign of our mood or our values, all of which fluctuate over time.
I’ve written my thoughts on trends before and why I don’t think they ought to be scorned. But I do sometimes wonder if a desire for outward reinvention sometimes masks deeper insecurities. After all, part of the consumption cycle is about making women feel inadequate, so that they will want to buy something to change that. And sometimes I do feel I’m seeking the new because there’s something I don’t like about the way I am.
I don’t think there’s any hard line between healthy, fun self-expression and covering your insecurities. This is obviously something each of us has to define for ourselves.
But I wonder if, like me, you ever find yourself wanting something new and wondering, why?
Comments
Burke
November 30, 2012 #
This is interesting – I started sewing because I was tired of poorly constructed, poorly fitted garments constructed out of synthetic fabric. I love suit shopping with my husband – the fabrics are to die for and usually, you know your sizing. Now that we’ve moved to southern GA (and I no longer have a stodgy job) I find I’ve been more creative with my sewing using more color and slowly opening up to the possibility of embellishment and details. And last night I came up with a green silk chiffon flowing dress that will be beyond impractical but so lovely to have! But, I do still lean toward classic shapes, but with some interest. Great post!
Burke
November 30, 2012 #
I should have also added that I use to wear black all the time for fear of figure flaws. I practically have little to no black now. Sewing has made me love my body and make me feel good about myself which in turn makes me feel more confident about wearing what works for me, as boring as the styles might be. Hope I’m making sense!
Viper
November 30, 2012 #
I definitely think someone can follow trends without “following trends.” I tend to side-eye people who hop on each bandwagon that comes along and smother themselves with a whole new style, trending just to be trendy, but I don’t think there’s anything wrong with incorporating a new trend into your personal style if it’s something you really like.
Stephanie
November 30, 2012 #
One of the reasons that I love vintage fashion and historical costuming is that when I get bored, I can just pick another decade and not have to wait for some fashion designer to come up with a new trend I like. I went shopping at the mall last weekend and so much of it was icky 80s rehashes. It made me so glad that I could go home and sew whatever I wanted!
I think sewing has helped me a lot with body image! It’s helped me see that I have my own unique figure and it’s not my fault that the very limited sizes offered by rtw stores don’t fit correctly. And it’s also taught me that my body shape is not wrong and that no amount of dieting or exercise is going to “fix” me. I’ll just fix the clothes instead. I may not have a supermodel body but when I put on things that fit, have the right cut and flatter me, I feel like a supermodel and I think that’s ok.
On the flip side, we’re women and we’ll always love to shop and I think that’s ok too! :)
Nicole
November 30, 2012 #
The statement about menswear actually isn’t true. Prior to the French Revolution, when western clothing moved away from costume and into fashion, men were actually amongst the first to take risks sartorially with several very drastic changes, while women’s trends very often slightly mirrored changes that took place in menswear. It is true that menswear was the first to meet modernity and has remained more or less static from the 19th century, however, prior to that, it changed quite a bit! Pick up an art history book and check out what men wore from the 1000s to the 19th century. Women’s clothing really didn’t make drastic and striking changes until the demise of the corset. You see womenswear make it’s biggest changes around the same time menswear hits modernity and slows down in change.
I’m so rambling!
Sarai
November 30, 2012 #
I guess I wasn’t specific enough. I was referring to menswear (and fashion in general) in its more modern form, and how it affects us today.
Autumn
November 30, 2012 #
For me fashion is all about achieving a classic look. I am interested in fashion mostly because it is so easy and common to fall into trendy, cheep, unflattering looks. I just want to look like the best version of me without overdoing it to the point of being egocentric. When I was younger, and I didn’t get the attention I wanted, I would change my look and bask in all the double takes and icebreakers my outlandish look created. Now I don’t want to be different than my fellow person, just to just have a look of simple elegance is novel enough for me.
Molly
November 30, 2012 #
I agree with Autumn. I admire my husband who sticks to a uniform of jeans/cords, a button-down shirt, and a tie. He doesn’t have to wear a tie — he works from home, but chooses to use color and pattern to express himself. Sometimes I wish it were this easy for me. I see my own streamlining as a stand against consumerism. Something that is timeless and well made is much more appealing to me these days. It frees up a lot of my brain space too!
Jamie Grace-Duff
November 30, 2012 #
I do often wonder why I eventually get swept along into trends. I have learned over the years that my figure is balanced by say bell bottom jeans and that cool summer colors look best on me. But after years of skinny jeans/pants/leggings, I am starting to wonder if I just look frumpy and out of date rather than like a well put together balanced woman embracing her figure! At the same time I recently became a mother and am finding it hard to balance all the fun things I want to wear and appearing as a put together authority figure (and why I feel that those things are important!)
I think it is really interesting as you say in your entry that men’s fashion really hasn’t changed much in 100 years. WHile this is true, looking back at the 1700’s, men’s fashion has totally changed and are we heading back to the time of male peacocks? I hope so, because I think there are a lot of fun fashion opportunities just waiting for that!
Shelley
December 1, 2012 #
I read a fashion text several years ago (Fashion Reader?) that said it all began in the 1100’s when young noblemen started dressing differently in order to attract the attention of royalty at court. Perhaps women chase change in order to attract the attention of men? Just a thought…
http://shelleyshouse.blogspot.co.uk/2009/04/fashion-and-history.html
Sarai
December 2, 2012 #
Interesting, and while I do think there’s an element of attention-seeking, I really don’t think most women’s interest in fashion has much to do with attracting men. With some exceptions, most men simply don’t care how fashionable a woman is. Although I’m sure most straight women are somewhat interested in appearing attractive to men, women are really the ones who notice what you’re wearing for the most part.
ultrahedonist
December 4, 2012 #
Having gone from a bad to a good dresser and spending a lot of time with men, I’ve concluded that most men actually do notice and find themselves attracted to fashionable/good dress. They’re just not devoting that much conscious attention to it, nor do they have the language to describe it. They’ll just see a well-dressed woman and think “She looks good/appealing/competent” and not even really know why, rather than coo over your new handbag! Which is ideal really, IMO :)
Nikki
December 1, 2012 #
I began sewing because I was fed up with not being able to buy the clothes I wanted to wear! From my teenage years the music I listen to defined what I wore, then I had kids and that changed my attituded towards what I wore – not sure why. From then until learning to sew, I was looking for the clothes I wanted but never found them, so I just made do. Now I wear what I like, in the colours and prints I want and they fit, I’m no longer limited by fashion on the high st.
Brooke
December 1, 2012 #
I find that the more I stay away from TV, magazines, shopping centres and ads in general (obviously not easy to do!), the less I “want” new/trendy clothes – which to me means that I don’t actually want new clothes until someone tells me I do through advertising (obvious or latent). The same could probably be said for sewing blogs and my desire to sew… but I certianly won’t be giving them up!
It also doesn’t feel right to be so consumed by fashion when in many parts of the world people don’t even have food, let alone a second outfit. Sometimes I think that the West’s push to consume is a ploy to distract us from all the evils occurring in the world around us. We’re less likely to care about what is happening in Iraq for example (and thus do something about it) then when the next big sale is on or what the hippest trend is.
Just food for thought.
Sarai
December 2, 2012 #
I feel pretty sheltered from those kinds of media (as much as one can be in this day and age), but the internet is a whole other consumerist paradise. Between blogs, retailers, and sites like Pinterest… I feel constantly confronted with possible things to buy.
On the other hand, this is one reason I love sewing, because it creates a mental shift for me. Instead of thinking, “I want that” I usually think “maybe I should make something like that.” Unless, of course, we’re talking about shoes…
Maddie Flanigan
December 2, 2012 #
Over the past couple of years, I’ve learned a lot from men’s dressing. Mostly the fact that they have a uniform that defines their style and that they change up only a little each day. I often try to trends that buy things that don’t fit into my wardrobe, which leads me to looking disastrous on some days.
Barb
December 2, 2012 #
We dress for other women, not men….. Could this be a part of our insecurities around our attire?
What is the definition of wealth in third world countries?
Answer: a shirt
Sarai
December 2, 2012 #
My belief is that there are layers of meaning to our clothes. We dress to express our identities, to feel good about ourselves, to be attractive to men/women, to give a sense of prestige, to impress other women, etc. Depending on how each of these factors into your decisions, you may be more or less insecure about it all. Overall, I definitely agree that most women will notice attire more than men.
As for your second statement, I feel I have a whole other post brewing on our moral obligations as consumers in the face of world poverty (which is something I think about a lot lately).
Nina
December 3, 2012 #
Asking “why?” when I find myself wanting something is one of my best weapons against over-consumption. It’s fascinating, too, to examine the reasons that I want certain things. I quite often realise, when I reflect for a moment, that I want something simply because I’m *supposed* to want it – it’s in magazines or on stylish blogs, for example, so I know it’s the ‘in’ thing – and not because it actually fills a need I have or speaks to me in some way. Once I’ve made that conscious, the desire usually evaporates.
katty alright
December 4, 2012 #
I feel like lately more than ever trends are very obvious – and I’m very aware that I am not a part of them…
although I like the colors that are ‘trendy’ now, and I feel like sort of a ‘follower’ for using them in my sewing, I try to think of accidentally liking trends as just my creative self gleaning inspiration from here and there…does anyone else feel like an misshapen trend monkey sometimes?
Kathi sorensen
December 4, 2012 #
Interesting thread! I just turned 70 (!) and have been pondering what an appropriate ” look” would be for me at this stage in my life. Absolutely reject the “Granny goes to church” look, but also reject the dreaded “mutton dressed as lamb” look. Decisions, decisions.
Megan
December 5, 2012 #
Whenever I find myself wanting something “new” it is because I am unsatisfied with how I look in other things. I want something or to make something because I love a certain fashion or detail to it, it just usually comes with the bonus that it happens to be new, but that isn’t the initial reason I wanted it. I think the way stores constantly market “new fashion” does have a little to do with insecurities..they have a way of making out you need it this season or you just can’t possibly do without it, your life will be miserable! I think new trends in the sewing world are exciting because it involves that wonderful creative process..trends in mass produced chain stores are changed often simply so that we have to buy something new to fit in or because we don’t already have one. If they didn’t change so often, we wouldn’t give them so much money and that is a problem for them. But with sewing, embracing new trends is fun! And by asking myself why, whenever I wish to buy a new outfit or pattern usually gives me my answer..am I feeling a little insecure that day or do I simply love it? So I think it would greatly depend on what my mood is for that particular day. I’m more of a trend setter for my own style then a follower, my biggest mistakes have been when I’ve bought something new out of “retail therapy” when I wouldn’t ordinarily have bought that colour/style/shape/fabric!
DEBORAH DAMELIO
December 6, 2012 #
Personally, I think a lot of it has to do with money–making it and spending it. Obviously those who are selling it want to make money from it and those of us who are buying obviously have enough discretionary income to buy–to be trendy, just to be dressed or somewhere in between.
I was never a trendy person. Other than the 60s attire (I’m in my 60s now), I thot what was put out as fashionable looked pretty idiotic: they didn’t look good on the model and I can’t imagine a normal body they would look good on–especially the current trend of low cut jeans. I don’t see how men or women can think that having their abdomen and/or buttocks stick out is attractive.
Since I have become poor enough that I can only afford a few outfits that are presentable enough to be seen in public and must last several years, it necessitates a relatively classic look–if I can find it to buy or make. I always put my own spin of embellishments on them to get an individualized look.
LadyD
December 18, 2012 #
I generally buy/make new stuff because the old version is falling apart or I need it for a special occasion/type of weather. (I have cake/frosting balance). I know what suits me and tend not to stray too far. I will find though I’ll make something in compete isolation then hear/read that what I’ve made incorporates a ‘trend’. Like I wanted a smart work skirt. Made one in tartan, then find out tartan is on trend. I’ve never deliberately followed a trend.
Lauriana
January 4, 2013 #
I definately think I have too many clothes already and yet, I keep want to make new, different things. I tend to allow myself to do this because I also sew to develop my skills in sewing, pattern making and designing…
As for the difference between fashion for men and for women: That’s only true for, about, the last century and a half. In medieaval and Renaissance times, basically right up to the French Revolution menswear could be very flamboyant and very susceptible to change, often more so than womenswear.