Seamwork Issue 10

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The September issue of Seamwork is up and ready for you to read!

In this issue:

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Some favorite quotes from this issue:

” The actual creative act of sewing, the constant learning and the huge sense of productivity that are byproducts fulfill my need not to stagnate, to be industrious and to do something that is just for me when life with two small kids can often not feel like my own.” -Charlie Wensley, Finding Me Again

“Like all things, the meaning of tartan has changed over the centuries, but it can still be just as powerful an identifier. The iconic tan and mulberry Burberry tartan pattern is one example; if you grew up in a town with Catholic schools, then so too is each school’s distinctive plaid skirt.” -Devon Iott, Mummies, Victorian, and Punks: A brief history of tartan

“Nothing gives a professional, finished look to a Breton striped tee or pair of plaid pants like a perfect pattern match. Artists have long been aware that any disruption in pattern draws the eye. ” -Piper Springs, Matching Plaids and Stripes

And here are the two new quick-to-sew patterns in this issue:

moji-time
When it comes to pants, it doesn’t get much more stylish than Moji. Nervous to make your first pair? Or just don’t feel like fussing with a fly? Moji is a breeze to sew and takes just three hours to stitch up.

Moji is a relaxed peg fit pant with an easy drawstring and practical pockets. These fashion forward pants are a casual staple sewn in light weight denim, and look chic and polished made in wool plaid. Pair Moji with Akita for the perfect fall outfit.

akita-time

Kick start your fall sewing by turn that stash into a draw full of modern blouses. Akita is the perfect wardrobe building staple that you can stitch up in just an hour with under 2 yards of fabric.

Sewn up in a solid silk Akita is perfect for the office or cocktails. Or make a statement try a bold non-directional print. This classic blouse transitions well from the warm days to the crisp nights of early autumn. Simply layer with a cozy Oslo sweater to wear through fall and winter.

You can visit Seamworkmag.com to read the issue, download it from the current issue page, or subscribe to get the patterns.

Haley Glenn   —   Editorial Director

Five years ago, Haley left the apparel industry to join the world of home sewing. She has been empowering women to sew ever since – first through years of in-person teaching at Sew LA, and now through her writing at Colette. Haley writes tutorials and articles on our blog, teaches sewalongs, and writes and edits for our magazine, Seamwork.

More about our writers

Comments 26

Katie

I just can’t tell you how much I love the shirt and pants pattern!!!!

Jeri mymodernvintage.wordpress.com

Just read this entire issue from cover to cover (instead of the spreadsheets I was supposed to be doing) and must say the writing continues to get better with every issue. I was especially interested to read the article on Alpacas as I am a knitter as well as sewer. The article on tartans was also extremely interesting and while giving a history lesson also made me think of the Outlander books with the references to Jacobite risings and the Battle of Culoden!

Ofer ofermesew.wordpress.com

I really like the fabric and combinations for the shirt and pants. inspiring!

Erika justthatdiy.wordpress.com

very beautiful! love the trousers!

meredith

I have been looking for a blouse pattern and this one looks great.
Would this work cut on the bias? If so do you have any recommendations on changes that might need to be made to it.

Haley colettehq.com

Cutting Akita on the bias would be lovely! You may need to add a shoulder seam in order to fit the pattern piece on the width of your fabric (this depends on whether or not your fabric is 45″ or 60″ wide). Check out this article for more tips on sewing bias cut garments.

alaskapsych

I so look forward to the new edition each and every month. Well done again!

Wilma

I hoped for a top and a pants pattern! Just what I needed in my wardrobe :D

Sarah O. ohsaraho.com

This issue’s patterns are great for fall. And I was pleased to see Toft knitting get a mention in this issue. I totally recognize those alpacas!

Becky

It’s becoming my 1st of the month routine to congratulate you all on another beautiful issue of Seamwork and once again, I’m so excited about this issue and these patterns!
I am in great need of a wardrobe of comfort/leisure-type pieces that are also sophisticated and versatile. The Moji trousers are perfect! I can wear them around the house for studying days OR to wear them work, enjoying secret pajamas and feeling put together at the same time. Additionally, I’m still afraid to make pants, so I think Moji will be a gentle introduction.
I’ve also been wanting to quickly build up my handmade blouse collection, so Akita is great for me as well.
Thank you!!!

Becky

Hi, me again. I’m so excited to maybe sew up some of these wonderful pants this weekend!

I have a question about the pattern layout for the Moji pants. I think I might be a tad short on the fabric I want to use, which as far as I can tell does not have a nap or a directional print/texture.

Would it be crazy to flip one of the Moji leg pattern pieces upside down to fit all the pieces into less yardage?

Haley colettehq.com

As long as your fabric is non-directional that would absolutely work. Happy sewing!

Becky

Awesome, thank you so much!

Cindy

Love both patterns in this issue – can you tell me the orange red? print fabric that was used on Akita . Really love it and would love to make one just like that.

Also could a fabric with a little bit of stretch work for the Moji pants?

Haley colettehq.com

The fabric used for Akita was purchased locally from Bolt. I believe they purchased the fabric as surplus from a designer. You may be able to call and purchase over the phone if they still have it in stock, as they do not sell fabric on their website.

A fabric with a bit of stretch would be perfect for Moji!

Helen!

Love this issue! I love the diversity of your models, and this issue’s is no exception. I especially appreciate the The Seamworker’s Guide to Los Angeles. I live in Long Beach, a few miles south, but don’t venture into LA that much anymore. (Actually dislike LA lots, but love the LBC.) But I think I’ll have to go on a few field trips for some fabric and button shopping. Thanks, team!

Pelly

A lovely issue, and very well timed! I’m planning my (southern hemisphere) summer wardrobe sewing projects, and the Mojave looks like just the thing for long hot days and warm evenings around the house. I have a piece of embroidery salvaged from an old peasant blouse that I’m fairly sure will serve as a front neck piece. I’m also wondering whether a couple of back darts a la Laurel might work to give it just a little more shape for a dressy version.

The article on tartans is very interesting; I wonder where Bhutanese checked fabric fits in all of this?

Haley colettehq.com

Your Mojave sounds like it is going to be lovely! Adding darts to the back would absolutely work, be sure to test this adjustment by making a muslin.

Katie

I finished my first Akita this morning and I’m really thrilled with it. I’m looking forward to wearing it (paired with skinny jeans) to a literary event this evening!

Masha

I love the patterns in this issue! I was curious to see if Moji pants have been made by anyone in plus size. Can’t wait to make my pair, but have been working on the fitted blouse for the pattern review contest. Next weekend maybe! Still checking with Google for any new made up samples!

Kate proverbs2pursuit.blogspot.com

So I am planning out my Akita top, and I am stressing about the size to cut. My bust and waist fit right on size 14, but my upper bust measure is 4″ less than my bust measure. Typically, because I have small shoulders, I go off my upper bust measure and then do a FBA of 2″ (meaning cut a size 8). I was thinking to do this, attempting to separate the front from the back temporarily and then tape them back together after the FBA. However, I am worried that the FBA won’t be enough space to then get it over my head. However, if I cut the 14, it might look like a tent and the neckline will be huge and weird. Or would the FBA just end up pushing the size 8 to basically what a size 14 would actually be anyhow, and I should just cut the 14? AHHH! This will be my first attempt at a top this style (as I usually shy away from woven tops in general), but it looks so cute!

Haley colettehq.com

I think that your idea of separating the front and back piece and then executing a FBA is your best bet. This adjustment will maintain the integrity of the neckline and shoulder, while creating more room in the bust.

Kate proverbs2pursuit.blogspot.com

Thanks! I found some scrap fabric with a similar drape to make a muslin with first, and we shall see how it goes.

Nicole

So happy to see prints featured in this issue!
I love the Akita pattern but am wondering how hard it would be to add just-above-the-elbow sleeves to it. Any tips for an Akita pattern hack!?
Thanks

Haley colettehq.com

Akita is drafted without a shoulder seam, which would make adding length to the sleeve a real challenge. To make this change, I would add a shoulder seam, then draft a kimono style sleeve. After making this adjustment, sew a muslin to check fit. If you find that arm mobility is a problem then adding an underarm gusset may be necessary.

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