Colette

Blue Clovers with welt pockets

101

When I was in high school, my friends and I shopped pretty much exclusively at thrift stores. In true 90s teenager fashion, we wore all kinds of horrible and weird stuff we picked up.

One of my friends had a particular penchant for those 70s perma-press polyester pants worn mostly by old men and found in pretty much any thrift store. Once, on our lunch break from school, we headed over to the nearby Salvation Army to do a little shopping, and she picked up a pair of said pants in this same shade of bright true blue. It was only later that day that she discovered, to her horror and everyone’s amusement, that these pants had PADDING sewn into the crotch. Ha!

So, this color is something I permanently associate with a pair of horrid padded polyester pants. Yet, when I saw it on the sale table at the Pendleton outlet for only $5/yard, I fell in love. It is an incredibly soft wool with a smooth hand and just a hint of stretch. And, like all Pendleton wools, the color is gorgeously vibrant. It was definitely a deal, since this stuff retails for at least $25 a yard.

I decided I wanted to do something a little different for these Clovers, so I added double welt pockets to the back, right under the darts. I really like the way they look. So… here’s a picture of my rear.

And here’s what they looked like before removing the silk basting thread.

I tend to think that pockets are the perfect excuse to (1) use up scrap fabric and (2) get a little wild with prints and color. I dug out this scrap of dalmatian dot cotton from the scrap bin and used it for the pocket lining.

As I usually do, I finished the inner waistband with bias binding rather than folding it under and catching it in the edgestitching. Perhaps I will include this as an alternate suggestion in future pattern printings, because it’s a nice easy alternative and looks very tidy.

Anyway, I’m in love with double welt pockets now and want to add them to everything. They’re especially great for dressing up anything simple and tailored, like these pants or a simple little shift dress.

I’d love to do a little video series on welt pockets, but I fear it would take quite a bit of time to put together the way I want. I wonder if you guys would be interested? Maybe a little mini class at some point? What do you think?

Sarai Mitnick   —   Founder

Sarai started Colette back in 2009. She believes the primary role of a business should be to help people. She loves good books, sewing with wool, her charming cats, working in her garden, and eating salsa.

Comments 101

liza jane lizajanesews.blogspot.com

I would love to see a series on double welt pockets!

These are a far cry from padded polyester… :)

Gail gksagenda.blogspot.com

I’d love a video series on welt pockets. I took a class many years ago, but have forgotten everything I learned because I never used it!

These pants are gorgeous. I can totally understand not wanting to pass up this color! New haircut is very chic too!

Sarai colettepatterns.com

Thanks, I forgot to mention that I cut it!

Jackie Njeri

That is the funniest thing I have read all week. Padding in the crotch, eeeewwwww! Makes you wonder where they have been. Every time I see this shade of blue I will remember this story.
I love the pants and the little surprise in the pocket.

Sarai colettepatterns.com

Better a surpirise in the pocket than a surprise in the crotch, eh? Now I’m grossing myself out! :D

Laura my-little-nook.blogspot.com

Beautiful! I use prints for pockets and inner waistbands almost all the time, even though no one really sees them. :D I haven’t heard of that kind of waistband finishing, but it looks great. I’ll definitely try it.

Sarai colettepatterns.com

I kind of get a thrill when I see a fun detail like that on the inside, one that no one else sees. It’s weird, but it makes things feel extra special and “finished,” for some reason.

Kirsten D.

I would love to have a mini-class!

Clare S magpiemakes.blogspot.com

I love that colour!! And those Clovers look lovely on you!

A massive ‘yes please’ to the welt pockets guide – my boyf has demanded that I use them on a waistcoat I’m making him, but, frankly, they scare me, so the waistcoat has been sat in my to-make pile forever!

Lara motivationisoverrated.com

I second this! I would try making the clovers with pockets, otherwise I think they’d make my bum look too big!

Shannon

I would like to know how to put in welt pockets. I had the same fixation on polyester thrift pants as your friend from high school (I’ll admit I still have 2 pairs I dug out of my uncle’s closet from the late 60s/early 70s that were particularly nice that I still wear).

Lisa S.

Gorgeous!! A tutuorial on the welt pockets would be a very good thing.

Wendy

Please do a tute! I’ve seen a couple but somehow I’ve still managed to miss something, mine never come out quite right.

Jill laughbutnotloudly.blogspot.com

Welt pockets? YES PLEASE!

Mariana needlethroughcolors.blogspot.com

I would certainly love to see your video tutorial for welt pockets. You always give such clear instructions and I bet it would be a “go to” tutorial when in need. :)

Sue sewinsteady.blogspot.com

Definitely interested in welt pockets!!

These clovers are particularly adorable and fit you PERFECTLY. Love the blue!
Excellent work, as always.

Chelsea

Yes, Please!! I love all of your sew-a-longs and tutorials! A mini class would be awesome (as long as I can attend while still in Colorado!)! Love the pockets… I wish a shot of my rear looked that nice!

Sarai colettepatterns.com

Haha! Thanks for the butt compliment.

JoeyR

I love the colour of the trousers and your new hair do! ;o)

Maria M.

Girl – you sew a mean pair of pants!!! Dang! Even in my best-of-times, my pant-sewing skills are horrid. I love the color, welts, fit, etc.

*sigh*

Sarai colettepatterns.com

Practice! I know they’re a pain to fit, but once you have your pattern perfected, you can just make the same ones over and over.

junita stackofcookbooks.com

Yes to the welt pocket demo! Your pants looks amazing and I love the surprise pocket lining.

MissTessaMelissa misstessamelissa.com

Growing up, I had a thrift shop on the corner of the block I lived on. I had no clue that there was a thrifting trend because I lived in a fairly small town, but I was there at least once or twice a week picking out the most awful garments to wear, as well. I was stylin’ in my eyes. :) I love those pants! I think I’m going to have to break down and get the pattern now.

Sarai colettepatterns.com

Thrift stores are a godsend for teens, really. I used to find the most amazing stuff, and wear it all. But the men’s section always held a particular charm for me.

Rachel jacobiterose.blogspot.com

Ooh definitely :) I wouldn’t even mind if you had a little welt pocket pattern/packet download for sale ;)

Lauren lladybird.wordpress.com

Did you cut your hair even shorter? It looks so good on you!

I would be interested in a welt pocket making class/video :D I want to try them at some point but I haven’t found the proper vessel for them… yet!

Sarai colettepatterns.com

Yep! I feel like making some little pastel flapper dresses to go with this new cut. :)

elizabeth

adorable pants and adorable haircut! I love the color of the pants too. I almost sprayed coffee all over the laptop when reading about the padding–was not expecting that!!!! hilarious!

Amanda symondezyn.wordpress.com

Why in the blue blazes would someone want padding THERE? lol!!! I love the welt pockets and a tutorial is a great idea! :) Also, yes, very interested in having instructions included on finishing inside waistband with bias binding, it looks so neat and finished :)

Sarai colettepatterns.com

I can only imagine that it was there to impress the ladies (or gents, depending). Or maybe like a padded bra, it gives extra support? I don’t know, I don’t think I want to think about it!

Becky sew-and-so.blogspot.com

I would love a little mini-class on welt pockets! My attempts to do both those and bound buttonholes have been largely unsuccessful so far, particularly in the corners, and I’d really like to master that particular skill.

And those thrift store pants sound awful!

rachel

I was hoping you would do a tutorial on welt pockets! they are so gorgeous! looking forward to that video

Janice meladori.com

Yes, please do a tutorial for welt pockets! I’ve been meaning to add them to my Clover for ages.

Popbabe7 themagnificientblogofpopbabe7.blogspot.com

I’m not a fan of trousers, but these look really good!

Sarai colettepatterns.com

Thanks! I used to hardly ever wear pants, but I do at least half the time now. I love dresses, but prefer pants to skirt separates for some reason.

Sara theprettypickle.blogspot.com

I just made (and blogged) Clovers in this color too! Now I feel totally awesome and validated since you picked the same color. haha. Mine aren’t wool, but you take what you can get. I really like the bias tape idea. I’ll definitely be making a third pair and I will now be finishing the waist facing this way.

Cynthia dapperduds.wordpress.com

I love these. The fit is superb, the pockets look fantastic, and the color is wonderful for spring. These (in this color) remind me of Kate Spade’s aesthetic.

Sarai colettepatterns.com

Thanks, and I agree it’s such a nice color for Spring. I’m thinking I’ll have it in my palette this Spring for sure.

Pam pammieandtheps.blogspot.com

Hi Sarai – Fantastic Welts – I love them – and have yet to perfect this technique.
It was great to meet you at the Sew LA party and love your book!

Again, beautiful color and detailing on the pants!

Sarai colettepatterns.com

Thanks for coming out, Pam! Those ladies threw a great party, didn’t they?

Samina

The patterns look so chic & the welts really make them look couture. I would love to see a demo on the double welts, when you’ve got the time to do one.

Pam in Paris

Absolutely!

I love your posts; I love Love LOVE the pants, so please do the tutorial for the welt pockets!
Thank you!
Pam in Paris, France

Lieke

Would these also be suitable for (the front of) skirts? (Novice seamstress talking) If so, I would love to see a tutorial!

Sarai colettepatterns.com

Absolutely! You see a lot of welt pockets (and faux welt pockets) on shift dresses from the 60s too, which is a look I really love. They can go on a huge variety of garments, because they don’t have much bulk and tend to lie flat.

Leah strugglesewsastraightseam.wordpress.com

I would love a welt making class! And not to be greedy, but if you could throw down with a mini tutorial on finishing the inside seam with bias binding that would also be just the best thing ever. And this color is lovely, it says effortlessly chic not thrift store horror. What did your friend do with the padded pants? Were they saved?

jaime patchworkarchitect.blogspot.com

Welt pockets would be great to learn! I would love to see you post about it. Thank you.

Cherie

Those pants are pretty. And I love the welt pockets. Yes! I want to learn how to do welt pockets. Pretty please! :-)

Thank you for all of your helpsful sewing tips. I learn so much from them.

Debi fashionsfromthepast.blogspot.com

LOVE these! WOW, what a fabric steal! I just love Pendleton Wool and this is such a fantastic colour…I hope you bought the whole bolt :) Love the welt pockets and great idea about the bias binding!

Sarai colettepatterns.com

Unfortunately, the wool was only in a few pre-cut pieces. But the Pendleton outlet often has fab deals on pre-cuts. If any of you are ever in Portland, it’s a must.

thimbledore thimbledore.tumblr.com

Yes, yes, yes please! Welt pockets look so classy and tidy, but I find them very difficult to put in. My attempts have always come out looking clumsy. You and Caitlin are excellent teachers AND your pockets up there look perfecto, so…. class please!

PDX Gretchen

Your pants look fabulous! I would love either a tutorial or a mini-class. I have yet to tackle welt pockets, so I would love to learn.

MarrieB

Here’s another vote for a tutorial or mini-class. And Love the pants, so classy and so cute.

Lavender threadsquare.wordpress.com

Love the new hair, and love the pockets. Once I perfect the Clover fit, I think pockets will help make my rear look a little better. I was that girl wearing those pants with the seam down the front. Just couldn’t get enough of them!

Valerie beyondthecurtains.blogspot.com

I would love to see some tutorials on welt pockets. Yours look lovely!

Saeriu

Would love to see a tutorial on making welt pockets! Please, please, pretty please?!?!

Rachel W. darling-autodidact.blogspot.com

Yes please to the pocket tutorial! I can make sort-of-a-welt-pocket using Kathleen Fasanella’s instructions, but mine turn out pretty scraggly compared to your beautifully clean pockets. Love the hidden Dalmatian print!

Sarai colettepatterns.com

I’m glad to hear you guys are really interested in a short little class! I’ve actually already planned out what I’d do for it, but gotta get these Spring patterns to the printer first. :)

Katie unconventionalkatie.blogspot.com

I also wore those old man type pants in high school in the 90’s. I paired them with vintage or band t-shirts and Mister Rogers cardigans. Though I was never, um, lucky enough to find padding in the crotch of any of mine. I did also, however, have a pair of corduroy pants in this same color, though they were vintage bell bottoms.

I am interested in a welt pocket lesson as well. :)

Alicia C.

Another vote for a welt pocket tutorial! Just over ten years ago I had pants that were basically longer versions of Clovers and they had false rear welt pockets. I’ve been wanting to add real welt pockets to my Clovers once I finish the fitting process (hopefully almost there?). While it seems relativaly easy to do so, I’d love a tutorial to guide me anyway.

Also, awesome pant color and awesome hair!

Kristen

Are there often good deals like that at the Outlet? I’ve never been before but I might need to make a trip to Mill End and it looks super close to it on a map. Are there better times to go than others?

Sarai colettepatterns.com

It’s very close, just down the street! I’ve found many excellent deals, but they’re pre-cut, so you have to be flexible. Most stuff is still quite pricey there, but oh-so-worth it. If nothing else, you can drool over the colors and textures, the quality is really extraordinary.

pat

That story was too much! Please do the video. Sewing (in my opinion) is a life long learning process. Not that it’s a bad thing.

Kris

I would *love* to come to a class! keep us posted!

Dana peppertreeroad.blogspot.com

I was just about to comment when I heard ” ……spring patterns to the printer.” How exciting!
I think that your hair looks fabulous, it really suits you this length. There is a new TV series starting here on Friday about Phryne Fisher (Australian character from novels by Kerry Greenwood) that is set in the 20’s. I am really looking forward to the visual feast.

I also love your pants, the fit is perfect. I have been up and down about getting this pattern, I am not sure if I have the greatest body shape to pull these off. After seeing these I might just have to be daring and give it a go anyway. Would love to see some sort off tutorial.

Dana peppertreeroad.blogspot.com

For the pockets that is….

Tilly tillyandthebuttons.com

Aw man, you’ve just reminded me about the trousers I started nearly a year ago and haven’t finished yet. They have reeeeally shoddy welt pockets, so I’d love to see how you do them so neatly!

These look lovely… and you look really pretty in the photos, by the way.

Dayl

Very nice! Love the detail that the welt pockets add! And i would INDEED like a tutorial on welt pockets! I have yet to do them, but am gearing up and would love a little extra help/push.

Julie

Yes!! I would love a welt pocket tutorial. I love that color fabric. It’s funny because I have the Clover pattern and have been searching high and low online to find stretch twill in a bright, royal blue. To no avail! My search continues….

Sarah rhinestonesandtelephones.blogspot.com

I adore these Clovers! The blue is so cheerful and looks lovely on you. Nice welt pockets, too. :)

Rebecca

I would love a video on welt pockets. I love the way they look and the practicality, but I am terrified to try them.

Ali wardrobereimagined.blogspot.com

Aaah! More loveliness-from-Sarai abounds. I’m trying to be a very good girl and not take on too many sewing projects, but you’re a continuous inspiration. This is gorgeous and makes me hanker for a Clover (I messed up the first version) and I loved your version of the red Meringue with Negroni pockets. Gotta crack that book open.

As to welt pockets — yes! I am dubious about my abilities given my recent bound buttonholes and would LOVE a little class.

Great meeting you at Sew LA. :) Thanks for all your work — you make sewing so much fun for the rest of us. And here’s to weird 90’s teenage fashion! I miss it, I do.

Nyssa Jayne shoesandblues.com

those pockets are amazing!

however, i must admit, i am in LOVE with that waistband finish! in the middle of a skirt right now and I think i am going to try that bias tape finish — looks so lovely, plus i imagine it’s handy for a klutz like me who struggles to catch the inside edge when sewing. how do you think it would work on a piece with lining?

Sarai colettepatterns.com

It should work just fine with a lining! It’s the waistband finish I see most often in RTW too.

Nyssa Jayne shoesandblues.com

i shall have to have a play around! my fiance is about ready to send me off to bias-tape addicts anonymous i think…

Rebecca

LOVE the hair….and the pants!

Violet

What a great hair cut. Way flattering on you.
That is an amazing Clover fit. Good rear view so to speak.
I also would love to have the tutorial and maybe a downloadable could be part of it.
I like the looks of the bias on the waist too. Wouldn’t it be cute in the same fabric as the inside of your pocket?

Terri

I love the finish on the waistband. Do you think it would be possible to use it if you have a button above the zip?

Sarai colettepatterns.com

Yes, though how you work it will depend on how you’re doing the button. But it works even with fly fronts, tabs, whatever.

Handmade handmade-andsewitseams.blogspot.com

Very nice, I’m curious about what size you made? My first Clovers – I cut a 12 – according to my measurements – they were way too large, and have made the 8 on a subsequent pair …. which were better, yeah, so just curious about what size you use.

Sarai colettepatterns.com

If you used a stretch fabric, perhaps it became stretched out? I cut an 8, which is what matches my measurements. I then do a short waist adjustment (I’m very short waisted) and full butt adjustment (I have somewhat narrow hips but a muscular behind).

Natasha

Yes please for the class on the welt pockets!!! And maybe a pattern piece if possible. :) I got frustrated with my clovers and put them aside, but seeing yours makes me want to get them back out and try to get them to fit properly.

Wendy

I’d love to see a tutorial for welt pockets. And I’m loving the waistband binding too. These little touches can make a simple garment so special. The blue colour looks great on you as well.

Amanda

That stunning blue is a perfect match for your Clovers. They’re just intense in a subtle way. You’ve balanced sophisticated and fun so elegantly. Thanks for the inspiration!

Handmade

Thanks for the feedback.

Francesca

Love the hair, love the pockets, yes to a tutorial, please:). And what was that about Spring patterns???????? When???? whoohoo!

I have a question I’ve been wanting to ask you for ages and was reminded by your fabric – I use stretch needles with four way knits, and jersey needles with knit fabrics..and I sew with a very narrow zigzag (no serger)…. what do you use when you sew a woven with a little bit of stretch? I bought some fine cord with a little bit of stretch to make Parfait, and am wondering if I should sew it like a normal woven or what… I can’t seem to find any info in my sewing books on this….

Sarai colettepatterns.com

I just sew wovens with lycra like any other woven. Normal needle, normal straight stitch. I don’t think the amount of stretch in typical woven needs much special handling.

Francesca

Thanks Sarai! That’s what I thought but am glad to have someone like you confirm it :).

Would love to see you in a flapper-type dress with that hair- it’s true, it’s very Louise Brooks….

Jen mommymadebyjen.blogspot.com

Cute pants – especially the color – but I like the haircut even better – very Louise Brooks.

Jade Sheldon jademsheldonphotography.com

You’re so chic! Love the pocket lining!

Lou

Truly FABULOUS Blog post…. Your welt pockets are sensational and yes would love a class! :) they look soo professional and I would love to learn that!
visiting your blog is always so inspiring!!! As was the article on Tilly’s Blog today… Fabulous read and Congratulations Sarai on achieving such balance in your life… It is soo important in staying healthy…. Both your emotional and physical health…. This I have learned the hard way…. Difficult to explain but I am soo happy for you and your business!
Looking forward to your Spring Patterns…:) I am sure they will be fabulous!! Oh and can you come and make my working area look like yours??? LOL!!! I am so envious ..it is fabulous!
Have a wonderful day!
Lou x

The Knitting Archaeologist knittingarchaeologist.blogspot.com

Gorgeous pants! I am making my way through past posts now that I have found your website. Very inspirational. I have never used bias binding to finish seams. I’ve only used it to bind a quilt. How would one go about using it for a waistband? I have botched every waistband I have ever tried…. If the instructions are now included in the new Clover pattern, I’m willing to buy it :) Thanks!

Kelli Cheales

Your comments and instructions on making welt pockets is excellent. I decided to tailor business slacks for my 33yr old son. Fashion dictates two welt pockets at the back. I enjoyed creating the slacks and taking time over the welt pockets.

I then made a winter cashmere coat for my 3.5 year old grandaughter . I created one welt pocket at the front. The first time she worn the coat the weather was very cold. I encouraged her to put her hand in her new pocket to keep warm. With a big smile on her face she instructed me that the next outfit I make for her,” I must have two pockets – one for each hand.” Although she could put two hands on the one pocket, Charlotte said, “they were cuddled up too tightly.” !!
Really enjoy your website and discussion board.

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