Hello everyone! I believe that it’s just about time that I start coming around more.
I am really excited for my first post on Coletterie, and to start sharing a little bit of my day-to-day as Colette Patterns’ Sewing Pattern Developer with you. For my first post, I’ll show you how I quickly mark and sew my darts.
In my college sewing and patternmaking classes we were discouraged from marking our dart legs before sewing. This is the alternative method I picked up; it uses the thread on your sewing machine needle to guide you to the dart tip.
Not only do you spend less time marking and more time sewing, it eliminates stray marking lines on the inside of your finished garment.
Before we start, I highly recommend acquiring a pattern notcher (you can find them on Amazon.com). This tool will punch a small notch on the edge of your pattern, making it easy to locate where you want to snip your fabric later.
1. Locate the dart legs on your pattern. Using the pattern notcher, punch a notch at the end of each leg.
Tip: If you’re notching tissue paper be sure to keep the tissue pulled taut as you punch it.
If you don’t have a pattern notcher, you can also use a pair of scissors to mark your dart legs. Just make sure you clip within your seam allowance.
2. Use a screw punch to cut a hole at the dart tip.
3. Lay the pattern piece on top of your fabric. Begin cutting out your fabric as you normally would. Transfer dart leg markings by snipping the fabric with shears.
4. Mark the dart tip with chalk or pencil.
5. Once your fabric is cut out, pin the dart as you normally would, matching the notches that mark your dart legs.
6. Pull out a few inches of thread from the needle, making sure you have at least as much thread as the length of your dart.
7. Beginning at the edge of the dart leg notch, make a few stitches towards the dart tip, and then backstitch.
8. Find your needle thread and pull it forward; use your thumb and forefinger to hold the thread in place over the dart tip.
9. Using the thread as your guide stitch toward the dart tip.
Tie off your thread tails as you usually would, and you’re done! Perfect darts without all that excessive marking.