French seams are wonderful for professional-looking, clean seams. The raw edge of fabric is essentially encased within the seam. They are perfect for light, delicate fabrics such as silk. This tutorial will produce a 5/8″ seam.
If you are making this silk scarf, you can use a french seam to join the two pieces of fabric end to end. While the seam will be visible, it will look very neat.
Pin the seam, with the wrong sides together.
Machine stitch, using only a 1/4″ seam.
Press the seam flat, then trim close to the seam.
Now press the seam downward.
Turn the fabric, so the right sides are now together. To help turn the seam, it can be helpful to run the tip of a knitting needle along the inside of the seam. Press the seam.
Stitch again, this time using a 3/8″ seam allowance. this will encase the raw edge.
Press the seam downward to finish the seam.
To finish the scarf, create a hand rolled hem along the four sides.
Comments 68
[…] best thing is that the tutorial includes other tutorials on how to create a french seam and how to make a hand rolled […]
Hard to see how you would make a rolled hem over the french seam. Would it not be better to do the rolled hem first, then seam the two pieces together. Or, cut the scarf running crossways (on the weft) so no seam is necessary.
I thought the same thing. Personally, I’m not so sure that making a scarf with a French seam looks very good, although I enjoyed reading the tutorial.
Sylvia: If you press the seam flat, it’s not too difficult. Personally, I think it looks better to do the seam first in order to make it less conspicuous, but obviously that’s up to the sewer. :)
As for cutting it on the crosswise grain, that’s an option as well, but the scarf would not be the extra long length pictured.
You have given me courage ! I am making a dress for my 12 year old granddaughter and wanted to do a scarf, I am going to try this and hope it works. I had no one to ask and have not sewed many clothes since my own girls were young. Thank you I’ll let you know how it turns out.
re ur french seam tutorial – thanks for the info but I just thought you should know that the link for “this silk scarf” is broken.
Debbie, sorry you had trouble with it but the link appears to be working for me. Hmm.
I was looking up how to make a baby sling, and in the directions it says to use a french seam. I’m trying, but I still don’t quite understand what it is, and why this is the beat seam for holding in babies. I’m not saying your tutorial isn’t a good one, but I’m not sure I understand the seam. is there something I’m just not picking up on? I’m not a huge sewer, but I’d like to become one, and I’d just like to get this right. is there any easier way of explaining it to a new sewer?
Years ago, this seam use to be made by, by making a regular seam, cutting half of the width of one piece of the seam, turning piece that is left in half and lining it up with bottom of the piece you cut in half and sewing it together.
The new method, looks much easier to do.
Hi Jeanette. A french seam is used basically to make your seams look neat, so there are no raw fabric edges showing. There’s no reason it’s better for holding a baby, except that it looks neater and perhaps will prevent stray threads from getting on the wee one.
thanks. I figured it out, and the sling is great! I sewed it down (like on the outer seam of jeans) and it’s working great.
To Jeannette:
I think that when you fold the seam down and stitch the edge again it is called a “FLAT FELL” seam.
I really appreciate this description of french seams as I have not sewn since high school – about 30 years ago.
I want to use french seams in duvet covers I’m planning to make next week.
[…] Colette Patterns and Hoppo Bumpo have pretty good tutorials on this. Basically put your fabric wrong sides together, stitch a seam (3/8″ or 1cm is good), press flat, trim to about 1/4″ and flip fabric so right sides are together. Press again and stitch your seam again, about 3/8″ or 1cm. This encases the raw edge. press and your done! You can make this wider or narrower depending on the thickness of your fabric. […]
Debbie is right, the link is broken. You can probably see it because you’re logged into the blog. Try changing “.local” to “.com” in the URL.
Thanks for the tutorial!
Thanks guys, the link should be fixed now. Sorry about that!
Mmmm… Strange. In french, we call these english seams (!?).
une couture anglaise
Marie, that’s so funny. I wonder what they call a hong kong seam in hong kong!
Okay, what is a hong knog seam?
A hong kong seam is a name for a seam in which each raw edge of the seam is encased in bias binding. It’s very labor intensive but a wonderful finish!
Thanks for describing a hong kong seam and for not pointing out that I transposed my letters in kong.
Ooh, thank you! Wonderfully clear instructions!
Can you use a French seam in the side seam where you have a bust dart?
You absolutely can. I suppose the only exception might be if your fabric is bulky, but french seams are normally used on very light fabrics, so bulk shouldn’t be a big issue I wouldn’t think.
Sure. The next time you’re at a store look at some nice women’s blouses.
[…] craftsmen. The widow Ellis’s housekeeper/slave Natalie, for instance, was skilled at sewing French seams in silk, while her mistress was terrified of sewing silk at […]
[…] to a serger, to a zig-zag, overlapping the layers and trim the overlap back to the threads. Or do a french seam, and stitch the finished edge of the seam down […]
[…] words the raw edges of the fabric are enclosed within the seam – a tutorial can be found here. The trick is getting the secondline of stitches close enough to the first line so that it […]
[…] bias tape or French seams to hide the […]
[…] we press and turn the pieces right sides together and sewed another 1/4″ seam. Sarai at ColletePatterns.com has created a beautiful step-by-step tutorial that shows how to create French […]
[…] that, let me give you one of Colette’s, because I love Colette Patterns, so so very much: French Seam Tutorial by […]
[…] fabric on the bias whenever possible to add curve-hugging shape and eliminate fraying. Enclosed French seams will protect raw edges from unraveling, and baby hems and hand-rolled hems will finish this […]
[…] Cut fabric on the bias whenever possible to add curve-hugging shape and eliminate fraying. Enclosed French seams will protect raw edges from unraveling, and baby hems and hand-rolled hems will finish this […]
[…] given the sadness of the gathered bust, but if I did I would underline instead of self-line and use French seams to make the bust less baggy/material dense. I would also cut the midriff piece on the fold. Not […]
[…] was complicated because I had to piece the remnants together. So each large panel required four French seams. I also pieced together four strap pieces and then realized that I only needed two. Annoyed at […]
[…] https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials-tips-tricks/tutorial-how-to-create-a-french-seam […]
[…] a few parts of the bodice that didn’t quite fit and I’d already finished the edges with FRENCH SEAMS. Hello seam […]
[…] French Seams (Colette Patterns) […]
[…] loved this fabric so I decided to try to make my own shower curtain. I even got all fancy with french seams and […]
[…] favorite. The fabric is so lovely, and I used some new to me techniques, like french seams (see this tutorial from Colette Patterns for more […]
[…] surtout le tissu ne va pas s’effilocher. Il y a une très bonne méthode sur la façon de faire des coutures anglaises sur le site Colette Pattern. Le plus drôle c’est qu’en anglais, on appelle cette technique « French seams […]
[…] learn about the french seam first in case I need to alter the directions. I found the tutorial on Coletterie helpful. Side note: A Colette pattern is on my wish list. Stay tuned in coming […]
[…] so far is the French Seam. Here is just one of many great tutorials out there on the French Seam. https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials-tips-tricks/tutorial-how-to-create-a-french-seam There are many different ways to use this seam, so play around with it. I have been using them on […]
[…] town. First I got the tab loops off, then I opened up two side seams and sewed them together with a French seam. Finally, I hemmed everything, sewed on pleating tape, used pleat hooks, and now those panels look […]
[…] You might not want to go to the trouble of using french seams on the lining, but do. It will enclose those annoyingly frayable raw edges inside the seam […]
Sarai, thanks for the french seam tutorial. I have a length of silk chiffon that I’m going to use to make a blouse. It has a tendency to ravel and I had been considering how to keep that to a minimum in making the top. The french seams and hand rolled hem will do that beautifully.
[…] will fit properly! So far I’ve sewn the side front and side back pieces together (using french seams because they are the sewing equivalent of the best thing since sliced bread) and attached each […]
[…] Tutorial: How to create a french seam | Coletterie Comments Off […]
how is this different to a flat seam??
[…] According to the Handbook, you first sew a 1/4 inch seam, then a 3/8 inch seam, as explained here. The other books say to first sew a 3/8 seam, trim the seam allowance, and then sew a 1/4 inch […]
[…] which is a breezy, drapey fabric that lends itself very nicely to a shirt like this. (I recommend french seams if you use […]
I sewed for a handbag company that utilized french seams often. I love the french seam and I also love the hand sewn rolled hem. Hand sewing is my preference, so I will definitely be using it to make scarves from large remnants I purchased that were marked down. Thank you for the great instructions!!!
[…] are only two things I did differently. I used french seams and hemmed the holes where the strings come out. Now this isn’t exactly necessary, but I like […]
I Still Don’t Know How To Do It And If I’m Supposed To Use Two Fabrics Although I Am Using Calico.
Thank you for reminding me how to do a French seam with your easy to follow tutorial here! I found it when I Googled French seam, and will look at your patterns when I have more time!
Thanks! Great tutorial! I also was looking up another tutorial that told me to use a french seam to finish off a baby wrap! I sew quite a bit, but had never known the term for a french seam.
French seams are great for baby wraps; they keep the raw threads out of baby’s reach. They also make for a stronger seam, which is a good thing, as babies seem to grow amazingly quickly, getting heavier all the time!
Thank you for such an ‘idiot-proof’ explanation to french seams. I have recently got myself a sewing machine and want to encourage my daughters to take up machine sewing too and your tips and hints have been great :)
[…] you are interested in learning to do French seams, check out THIS tutorial from Colette […]
[…] https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials-tips-tricks/tutorial-how-to-create-a-french-seam […]
Thanks so much! The little bags I’m making are sooo much nicer now! Legend. Is this also called a flat seam? What is a flat-felled seam?
Another fabulous tutorial! Thank you for taking the time to create and share! In today’s article, I put a link so my readers could also find you!
http://lanettascreations.blogspot.com/2013/09/the-art-of-seaming.html
[…] hard these days to find ready-to-wear clothing with flat-felled seams (seen on a lot of jeans), french seams (for sheer fabric), or taped seams. Sergers are great for knit fabrics, providing a bit more […]
[…] it together it is super speedy – although less pleasing on the eye. So I made it using french seams and binding the handles and opening, just so it would be more […]
[…] original seam is enclosed. You will be left with a flap. If you are unfamiliar with french seams this post might help you picture what I […]
[…] Here are a couple of written tutorials : Tilly and the Buttons Coletterie […]
[…] heard of a French seam, Coletterie, a sewing blog I’ve just started following, has a simple tutorial.) I also hand-sewed the hems on the bottom and sleeves of the dress. I had been working on my […]
No matter how I try I just can’t seem to catch on to the French sea, any tricks or a new and better method?
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