Books: Metric Pattern Cutting

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If you make garments (and chances are you do, seeing as you are reading this blog) you may already be on familiar terms, however if you are not, allow me to introduce you to Winifred Aldrich. She is the author of a series of books on flat pattern cutting, and on this subject she is a major authority. My ‘relationship’ with Aldrich began ten years ago when I received a list of recommended texts for the start of my Fashion Design degree course that included her Metric Pattern Cutting. Initially I bought one of the other texts, but once my course began and I took a look at my classmates’ copies of Metric Pattern Cutting, it became obvious which was the weightier tome and I swiftly corrected my error by purchasing my own copy.

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My copy is the third edition, published in 1994, but little of the book’s foundation has been altered since the initial 1976 version. And that is the key: it has a solid technical foundation which has been informing students for a third of a century. It provides instructions to create all the basic blocks someone who wants to design their own patterns would need, plus directions of how to adapt the blocks in a myriad of ways. This book is aimed at beginners, but with the sheer quantity of garment shapes, styles and detail variations achievable through its explanations, I find it hard to see why a pattern cutter would need to turn to any other volume unless they were trying to attempt very avant garde or sculptural work.

‘The basic rules of pattern cutting are based on sound principles, a student must learn those thoroughly so that when the rules are broken, it is a creative decision allied to sound reasoning’.

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Aside from the basic block creation and adaption that form the core of the book, I have found sections on drafting blocks for individual figures, correcting fit issues, and grading rules for different sizes keep me coming back to glean new knowledge.

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However, its sections on computer aided design and pattern development do now appear dated, if they hold any interest for you at all. Equally, some might also argue that many of the garment shapes or details it shows you how to achieve are also a little unappealing these days, but as this book perceptively acknowledges, a lot of fashion design is the result of a sensitivity to proportion. Therefore, if the reader looks beyond some of the particular shapes illustrated to the principals being imparted, each and every section contains knowledge to add to your arsenal of pattern designing skills. I will also concede that this book relies heavily on its pleasantly stylised illustrations and crisp diagrams to impart information rather than through reams of detailed text.

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Many of the style options this book offers up are really interesting and things I would never have imagined, let alone have the first clue of how to achieve, for example gusseted cap sleeves and raised seam sleeve heads (What? Exactly!).  It makes me realise how banal most manufactured garments and commercial dress patterns are these days.

If you are interested in starting to create or adapt your own garment patterns, or are looking to expand your existing skills and inspire you into new and interesting directions, then finding a copy of Metric Pattern Cutting would be a strong move.

Zoe Edwards   —  

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Comments 9

Debbie blogspot.com

How great to see this book – I learnt to make patterns with my mum’s copy of the 1976 version when a teenager and have kept it since then. I have found it a great starting place for me and a good springboard to develop ideas. I also can remember being a little kid and copying the line drawings of the fab hairstyles in it!

Claire

I have recently bought the 5th edition of this book and I’m already feeling completely inspired to make up patterns and garments for some of the sketches I have had cluttering up my space for as long as I can remember!
Could you recommend any books you have come across pertaining to patterns for underwear and nightwear?

Gray

I have the fourth of the edition of this book and I have to admit that I find it a bit much… I love it to pieces- don’t get me wrong and I can see t has it’s uses but how the hell do you transfer whats in the book to a pattern?

That is my sticking point!!

vindy

Its really great i learnt pattern cutting through this book. Could you recommend any book you have come across pattern cutting for fashionable knit wears.
reply me asap

chibabi

I need this book badly

mohamed

i want to learn how to pattern cutting

All the exhibitions in one day | Ruth Singer

[…] wanted to read anyway, having crossed paths with their project a number of times), another copy of Metric Pattern Cutting (so I have one to lend out), Nature Cure (which goes to show I have one or two interests outside of […]

ghulam abbas

pls send me price this book

sek amjad

i want to find real formal n casual blazer n trouser pattern cutting book

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