Picture Appliqué

Flicking through a 1970 edition of Golden Hands magazine recently, I discovered this image of an awesome appliqué panelled dress. The caption reads:

‘This enchanting evening dress with its pretty floating sleeves and attractive appliquéd bodice panel was designed by Adele Cooper, a fashion student at Hornsey College of Art. The dress is made in cream rayon crepe with satin and crepe appliqué in dark green, pale green, pink, blue and cream, machine sewn with a zigzag stitch. The appliqué panel shows two little birds perched at the edge of a lake surrounded by trees, with soft pink clouds above. The appliqué pattern is embroidered by hand with satin stitch and French knots.’

Well, I hope Ms Cooper received a good mark for her fantastic creation. Interesting also, how the author of the cation described the colours even though it is a full-colour image, I guess that was a hangover from an era where not every page of a publication would be printed in colour.  

When I saw the picture above, I was instantly reminded of a book from the early ’80’s on pictoral appliqué similar to this one which I found in my college library when I was about 17 that became the inspiration for a series of floral appliqués projects for my textiles course. It was time consuming and tricky, especially because I had decided to use satin for the small applied shapes, but the effect was impressive. So, aside from smaller and much simpler shaped applied to bags and skirts, why haven’t I tried anything similar since? One person who does do so, is the seriously talented and evidently very patient Michelle from Naughty Little Epoch, who creates some stunning appliquéd panels. I think these picture appliqués blur the distinction between sewing and art. The materials and techniques are common to garment creation, but the questions of composition, colour and texture seem more akin to the processes of painting.  

What are your thoughts on picture appliqué? Have you ever tried it? Do you have any ideas how, aside from a bodice panel or basic A-line skirt, they could form part of a garment?