The beginning of a new season is always a bit awkward for me. I never really understand what I was thinking the year before. Thoughts like “I must have been really into gold, sparkle gold” and “I don’t think I’m as comfortable showing my belly-button anymore” seem to always crop up.
This year, I’m not feeling nearly as outrageous. The Summer of 2016 is going to be much more simple and classic. My river-dips and barbecues will be peppered with not-too-short-shorts paired with pretty solid color blouses. For work, I’d like to wear my usual get-up: a nice top with a knit pencil skirt. Let’s be real, they’re basically the skirt version of sweatpants.
But, my closet doesn’t reflect this dream one bit. Either items are too casual, too busy, or just plainly not my style anymore. What I really needed was a versatile and quick-to-sew blouse pattern that I can wear all summer, to all the things.
Thus, my Modern Sorbetto was born. The alterations were a breeze and after making the changes, the construction of the top is almost exactly the same.
The original pattern has a very vintage esthetic; the front pleat, the short length, and the higher neckline are all reminiscent of 1950s blouses. I first removed the front pleat and closed the dart, which Meg taught us all about in her Knit Sorbetto post.
Next, to add a slightly more modern and casual look, I lowered the neckline, curved the hem, and drafted a little pocket for the blouse front.
Luckily for you, I took notes! Here’s how to make your own Modern Sorbetto.
- The free Sorbetto pattern
- French curve
- A ruler
- Pattern paper
- A sharp pencil
Start by removing the center front pleat and darts, as detailed in this post.
- Draw a perpendicular line from center front to the end of the closed dart leg. This is line A. Draw an additional line from the end point of the dart to line A. This is line B.
- Measure 1 1/2 out on both sides of line B. These marks will be your pocket placement marks.
How to draft a pocket.
- Draw a 3″ square. Draw a parallel line 1 1/2″ above the square. This is line A.
- Add 1/4″ seam allowances on the sides and bottom of the square. Bring the seam allowance line up to meet line A. At the point on the side seams where the top of original square is, draw in notches to help with construction later on.
1. Follow Devon’s instructions for adding a pocket after drafting your pattern.
2. Attach the pocket to your shirt front before any other Sorbetto construction steps.
3. If your fabric is lighter weight, interface your pocket piece for better stability.
How to lower the neckline
- From the seamline of the neckline and down the center front, measure the distance you would like to lower the neckline and mark. I lowered my neckline 1 1/2″
- Using a French Curve, redraw your new neckline.
- Cut away the extra paper, along the new neckline.
How to create a curved hem
Make sure to remove the dart before curving the hem.
- On the shirt front, tape an extra piece of paper to the bottom of the hem, it should be at least 4″ tall by the width of your pattern piece. Next, extend the center front line by the measurement you would like to add to the length at the center of your blouse, this will be line A.
I chose to keep the length of the Original Sorbetto at the side seams and lengthen the center front and center back by 2″.
- Draw a perpendicular line from the end of line A. This line should measure between 6″ for a small to 8″ for a XL, this is line B.
- With a french curve, connect the end of line B to the side seam. Repeat these same steps for the shirt back.
- Reference Meg’s Knit Sorbetto post for instructions on removing the dart and removing the front pleat.
- Make sure to staystitch! Especially if you are using a drapey fabric.
- I did a machine rolled hem on my Modern Sorbetto, if you haven’t tried one yet, I highly recommend it- its sorcery!
- I made matching some continuous bias binding. You can also use some cute contrast binding for a more casual look!
- Follow the pattern instructions to sew this Sorbetto, omitting the section on sewing the darts.
There you have it, three totally different and totally awesome Sorbetto Hacks in celebration of Sorbetto week!
We hope you were inspired to make some of your own hacks and to sew up this quick wardrobe staples.
Which hack was your favorite? What awesome alterations have you made to your Sorbettos?