Fly fronts can be very intimidating. The directions are often hard to follow and the illustrations downright cryptic. Today I’m going to show you step by step, with lots of photos, how to sew a fly front.
This type of zipper installation is usually seen on jeans, pants and shorts. Though sometimes you might see it on a straight skirt. As always, when you’re tackling something new, go slowly and don’t be afraid to use your seam ripper to pull out mistakes.
- zipper foot
- pattern with fly front
1. With right sides together, pin the pants front pieces together along the center front. Stitch between the small circles, backstitching at each end to secure. Note: this is usually very short, about 1″ or so of stitching on pants patterns.
2. Change to a longer stitch length and baste the front closed above the small circle, basting from the small circle to the large circle.
3. Clip the seam allowance up to the small circle, where the basting meets the stitching. Open the front seam and press.
4. Fold the left side of the fly along the marked fold line and press as shown.
5. Open up your zipper and lay the zipper face down along the left fold of the fly. Pin the left side of the zipper to the fold. Make sure the zipper teeth jut out slightly from the fold. Note: be sure your zipper works correctly before installing it!
6. Using a zipper foot, stitch the zipper to the folded seam allowance. Stitch only through the left seam allowance. This piece should now move freely side to side.
7. Place the unsewn side of the zipper tape to the right side of the fly and pin.
8. Using a zipper foot, stitch the unsewn side of the zipper to the right seam allowance. Again stitch only to the seam allowance and not through to the front of the pants.
9. Switch back to your regular sewing foot. Fold the fly back toward to the right and baste in place to secure. You’ll be removing this basting stitch later.
10. On the right side of the pants, stitch the fly in place along the curved stitching line as shown on your pattern piece. Press. Remove the basting stitches. To finish, follow your pattern’s instructions on attaching the waistband.
Voila! Fly front complete!